Day 2: Broughton Archipelago Adventure

Tuesday, August 29, 2017

Roger’s Beach, Swanson Island

Early afternoon

We’ve had a sunny morning. When we left Hanson Island, the weather was breezy and cool, but on this side of the water it’s hot and calm. Julian is setting up the outdoor shower(!), as we have running water from the landowner’s well. The rest of us are basking in the sun, the boys exploring the rocks for tiny crabs

All last night, we could hear humpbacks blowing and breaching. Amazing. I wondered whether it was a sea lion on our beach, and about getting up and going down to look, but thought I would have either seen nothing in the dark, or that if a sea lion were there I would have disturbed it, and it might even have been territorial. So I lay in my sleeping bag listening, and  learned from Julian this morning about my mistaken sound identification.

What a guilty pleasure it is to paddle to shore and find a base camp hidden in the trees, tents and sleeping pads set up and waiting, and to have Julian prepare and clean up after all our meals. At sunset last night, he walked out onto the beach carrying a tray of brownies, each one on its own leaf, with a candle glowing in the middle, and brought them around to us. I teased him this morning that it was right out of a women’s fantasy novel — a handsome young Maltese man serving chocolate on the beach to three 40 to 50ish year-old women.

We’ve spent the whole morning watching humpbacks and orcas blowing and breaching around us. One orca came up about 10 metres to my left as we were rafted together. I shrieked. Julian swore loudly, and then said he had goosebumps. Another breached, looking as if it were coming straight towards us, then rose again to our right. Since I’ve been writing on the beach, at least half a dozen have breached out in the water.

We’re already at our base camp for the night, and have unloaded our kayaks. Our boats will be lighter for our afternoon paddle. The boys are collecting specimens — crabs, and eel — in a tidal pool aquarium in the rocks. I’ve finally warmed up enough to strip off my long underwear. More whales are blowing, and a tail fin breached the water.

Early evening

All of us except Helen, who had heat exhaustion, went for a long paddle around some of the smaller islands this afternoon. I paddled Julian’s plastic Current Designs kayak, heavy with all the emergency gear. Julian and Josh shared a double. 

Josh has been the least enthusiastic kayaker,  complaining of being uncomfortable in the boat and taking frequent breaks when he was with his mom. I was surprised he volunteered to come with us this afternoon, and at how much he enjoyed it. He even kept paddling when Julian was taking a water break. I was really glad to see him having a better experience.

I was worn out by the time we returned. I had a (cold) shower — refreshing — and got into my warm evening clothes. We’re all sitting on the beach while Julian makes supper. I’m drinking mint tea, a mild headache, listening to the humpbacks in the distance.